I first tried Uğur Buryan about 15 years ago. It’s one of those special places I occasionally return to, and this time I stopped by in the afternoon on my way to the airport, suitcase in hand

What is Buryan?

Buryan is a cooking method very similar to tandır. A whole lamb or kid goat is hung inside a specially built stone oven. It cooks slowly without ever touching the fire. The lamb absorbs the heat from the stone walls.

Years ago in Siirt (a city in Southeastern Anatolia), I tasted buryan made from kid goat. Its flavor still lingers in my memory. Comparing that experience to Istanbul is not easy. The difference lies more in the quality of the meat than in the cooking technique itself. Still, I have to admit that Uğur Buryan is one of the cleanest and most reliable places to enjoy it in Istanbul.

Bread and Sides

Just as important as the meat is the tırnaklı pide (a traditional flatbread) it is served on. The bread soaks up the meat’s juices and completes the dish. At Uğur Buryan, the pide is excellent, though I can’t say the same for the accompaniments like ezme (spicy tomato paste) and onion salad, which could be fresher and more carefully prepared.

My Experience

When ordering, you can specify the fat level of your meat, either fatty or lean. Sprinkling pul biber (red pepper flakes) or oregano on top is also recommended.
This visit was a bit upsetting for me: since I went in the afternoon, fresh meat was no longer available. But I appreciate the honesty of the staff, as they made this clear before I placed my order. To enjoy buryan at its very best, you need to go early in the morning.

Kadınlar Pazarı

Uğur Buryan is located right in the heart of Kadınlar Pazarı in Fatih. This neighborhood is worth visiting not only for the food but also for its lively market atmosphere, with spice shops, nut sellers, and stores offering products from Eastern Anatolia. If you come for buryan, don’t leave without taking a stroll around.